Oil and Filter

From Bondline

Contents 1 Oil and Filter or Screen Service 2 Change your Own Oil and Filter 3 Oil Change with Remote Filter and Quick Drain 3.1 The Supplies 3.2 Why a Kikkoman Soy Sauce Bucket 3.3 The Hose 3.4 The Process

Oil and Filter or Screen Service

Until more content is written, take a look at what Lycoming says about the proper way to inspect filters and screens at oil change.

Change your Own Oil and Filter

Mechanical Difficulty:

Draining the oil from the sump, especially if there is a quick drain installed is an easy job for the owner/pilot. Removing, cleaning and re-installing the pressure screen is also something the owner/pilot can do, after demonstrating the ability to complete it correctly under supervision.

Oil Change with Remote Filter and Quick Drain

Note: This section incorporates the Oil Change with Remote Filter and Quick Drain page with edits. Bondline administrators should consider what to do with the orphaned page.

After a few questions posted to the Grumman Gang I thought I would document my procedure for changing the oil in my '76 Cheetah. I keep refining it as I go, but I hope this provides some useful tips for those who wish to do your own oil changes.

First, as Norm would say, a note about shop safety: Always wear safely glasses and other appropriate protection. I believe this, like most owner maintenance, must be done with the supervision of an A&P the first time.

Here's how it went for me at my last oil change...took less than an hour from hangar door up to hangar door down (not including the short flight to warm up the oil). My Cheetah is equipped with an oil quick drain valve and an Airwolf remote mounted oil filter...I recommend both if you plan to regularly change your oil.

The Supplies

• One 5 gallon Kikkoman soy sauce bucket, empty, with tabs on lid cut so the lid can be removed (scavenged from a local Chinese restaurant).
• 2~3ft of surgical tubing (diameter to fit the oil quick drain valve).
• 8 qts appropriate oil
• Oil filter to fit remote mounted oil filter adapter.
• Wrench to remove oil filter (I use a socket wrench w/ pivoting head & socket).
• Safety wire & safety wire pliers (the cheap ones at Harbor Freight work just fine...and are worth it)
• Newspaper (oil filter is mounted upside down, still haven't figured out a good way to get it out without some oil spillage).

Why a Kikkoman Soy Sauce Bucket

Now I know you are asking why I specified this bucket...well...actually any bucket that has a lid that seals and contains one of those extendable pour spouts will do. The advantages to the Kikkoman (or similar) bucket:

• Free from your favorite local Chinese restaurant.
• Convenient carrying handle.
• Can hold between 2~3 oil changes worth of oil depending on quantity at oil change time.
• Lid seals tight so spout can be used to pour oil out.
• Bucket with lid on and pour spout extended fits under cowl of the Cheetah
• Bucket fits well on most local oil collection tanks. Just open/extend the pour spout and set upside down over oil collection tank opening until bucket drains.
• Makes people wonder why you are taking a 5 gallon bucket of Kikkoman Soy Sauce into/out of the local Auto Zone, Napa, etc store. ;-)

The Hose

I've used a length of clear surgical tubing and have had no problems, but others have mentioned that the hose can slip off the quick drain. So, others have recommended using heater hose or using safety wire or some sort of clamp to hold the tube in place. Feel free to experiment as that will be far more fun than cleaning up 8 quarts of oil from inside your cowl and the surrounding floor. I'd also recommend not applying any forces to the hose while the oil drains. Another tip I've received is that, if you use the surgical tubing or other soft walled tube, don't fold it but coil it up for storage. Otherwise the hose may remain kinked when unfolded.

The Process

1. Run engine to heat oil so it flows easier...a great excuse to go flying.
2. Open cowl so you can access filter and quick drain.
3. Extend spout and remove cap on bucket, insert one end of hose into spout on bucket.
4. Snake other end of hose through lower cowl opening and slide over quick drain.
5. Open quick drain. Remove oil dipstick. Let the oil drain.
6. Place a number of sheets of newspaper under the oil filter, shape so it will collect any oil. Consider how you plan on moving the oil filter when laying out the paper. Since the filter is mounted upside down (like a cup), there will be oil that will spill out when removed. I know some gang members have devised containers to catch oil from the filter area such as cutting apart an oil quart container or gallon milk jug...they don't fit well in my setup, but it may work for you.
7. Remove safety wire and old filter. Set filter down so it doesn't spill oil (can use box it came in).
8. Wipe mounting surface clean, inspect for any damage. Remove newspaper.
9. Install new oil filter per instructions (gasket lube, tightening recommendations). Safety wire so it can not unscrew.
10. Close quick drain and remove hose. Allow hose to drain into bucket. Use small amount of paper towel to seal ends of tube when done.
11. Wipe off any drips from the quick drain (and cowling, but there shouldn't be any there). Confirm quick drain is closed.
12. Put cap on spout of bucket, remove bucket lid and place upside down on floor.
13. Pour any remaining oil from filter into bucket, then place filter with hole down on the upside down lid to finish draining (the last tablespoon or two of oil).
14. Add 8 qts oil to engine. Tip: oil container quarts can actually screw into the oil filler neck - Don't force it, just give it a 1/2 twist or so and let it sit until empty (something I learned from my A&P the first time).
15. Replace dipstick, remove all tools from engine area, and button everything back up.
16. Start engine, verify oil pressure comes alive quickly, Run engine for several minutes, shut down.
17. Open cowl, inspect for any leaks. Check quick drain, oil filter/screen area, etc. Close cowl.
18. Get oil filter draining on bucket lid, wipe it off, and cut open for inspection (or put in box and take to your A&P and ask them to cut it open. Most around here will do it free of charge if you are a customer. It's what I actually do). Verify no metal in filter element.
19. Put lid (with small amount of oil from the final draining of the filter), back on the bucket. Make sure lid seals.
20. Note tach time. Add entry to engine log (the job ain't done until the paperwork is). ;-)
21. You're done.

Well ... Ok, every 2 or 3 oil changes, go empty the bucket. I believe it is U.S. law that requires anyone that sells engine oil to collect used engine oil for recycling. I've also heard that some folks use heaters in their hangars that can burn used oil. I'm sure you'll find some legal and environmentally friendly means to dispose of the oil.

I hope you found this interesting. Please feel free to add to this if you have other tips and tricks. I'm always looking for a way to make it easier even though this process is far easier than changing the oil on any of my cars.

Happy Flying. -Mike